Home Cooking

Krotovina Cheese and Duck Rillettes mixed with Foie Gras

Brian Ziegler

January 05 2011 - 4:14 PM

Every once and a while, I’ll stop at Pastoral Artisan Cheese, my favorite cheese shop, and let the staff make any recommendations with regard to unusual cheeses. This time I tried the Krotovina, a goat milk cheese from Prairie Fruits Farm,which also has delicious goat cheese mixed with herbs. This unusual looking cheese is covered with a bloomy rind, meaning that the outside is covered in Penicillium Cadmium, a mold used to give that waxy outside seen in Brie and Camembert.

The difference with Krotovina is that they cover the outside in paprika and peppercorns and wash the rind, creating a bacteria to give it funk. Then they spread a thin layer of vegetable ash in the middle, typically used to separate sheep’s milk on one side from the goat’s milk on the other. This particular batch was only from goat’s milk; apparently they had run out of the sheep’s milk.  Despite the lack of herbs, it had a nice herbaceous quality with notes of oregano and thyme, hints of lemon in the front palate, followed by an earthy finish. It sells for $34.99 a pound there.

The other purchase was some duck rillettes mixed with foie gras. Rillettes, to the uninitiated, are basically pieces of meat that are cooked in fat, cured, salted and then shredded. The best way I could describe it as meat jam, something to serve on bread. I was a big fan of what Pastoral offered, as it was not too salty (as rillettes can be) and had a nice smooth consistency as to be expecteds.  It is sold for $27.99 a pound and I ate them on top of some almond flour crackers with good result.

–Brian Zielger

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