Capriole Mont St. Francis cheese

Brian Ziegler

September 07 2010 - 10:07 AM

Being from Wisconsin I have regional bias when it comes to cheese, and I really want to believe that Wisconsin products are inherently superior.   The state, though, has tough competition from neighboring states, and one of my favorites is Capriole from Greenville, Indiana, a producer specializing in goat cheese and around for over thirty years.   I've always been impressed with the O'Banon, wrapped in brandy-soaked chestnut leaves and capable of aging.   The brandy and chestnuts infuse the goat cheese, brining a strong complexity that is already a part of its goat cheeses.    Other favorites include ash-coated Wabash Cannonball, which is a surface-ripened creamy ball of young cheese (ripened through the growth of mold); and paprika-dusted Piper's Pyramid, a creamy mountain of goodness.

My latest favorite from them is the Mont St. Francis, a washed-rind semi-hard cheese named for a local monestary.  It has an earthiness and a deep character.  The batch of cheese I got didn't quite have the funk to which Capriole's web site had alluded, but it did have the depth of flavor expected in a washed rind cheese.

Capriole goat cheeses are available at the Green City Market, though they do tend to run out of their selections.  You can also find Capriole in Whole Foods and Pastoral.